Premier Gardens

1.Prepare vegetable seed beds, and sow some vegetables under cover

Knowing which vegetables to sow where, when and how means you can maintain constant supplies throughout the season. Sow vegetable seeds

2. Chit potato tubers

It’s important with earlies, and a good idea with maincrops, to ‘chit’ the seed potatoes before planting. This means allowing them to start sprouting shoots. 

Chit earlies maincrops

3. Protect blossom on apricots, nectarines and peaches

Most top fruit and soft fruit are very hardy but once they start into growth in spring, flowers and buds are especially vulnerable to frost and may need protection to crop well.

Protect fruit from frost

More jobs for this month

• Net fruit and vegetable crops to keep the birds off
• Prune winter-flowering shrubs that have finished flowering
• Divide bulbs such as snowdrops, and plant those that need planting 'in the green'
• Prune Wisteria
• Prune hardy evergreen hedges and renovate overgrown deciduous hedges
• Prune conservatory climbers such as bougainvillea
• Cut back deciduous grasses left uncut over the winter, remove dead grass from evergreen grasses

Lawns

General maintenance

Turf can be laid, provided the soil is not too wet or frosty. Work from planks, to avoid compacting the soil. Do not walk on the newly laid turf and leave undisturbed for several weeks to allow new roots to establish.

If the weather is warm, you may need to start mow. Set the cutting height at its maximum, and only mow when the grass is dry.

Re-cut lawn edges to crisp up the appearance of the garden and save work later in the season.

Prepare seed beds for new lawns to be seeded later in the spring, but only attempt this if the ground is not too wet.
 
Keep brushing away worm casts, as they can be troublesome at this time of year.

Continue to look out for moles. Their activity increases in February, as this is the mating and nest (fortress) building season. Remove the largest hills and re-firm the ground before overseeding with grass seed in spring.

Fusarium patch, or snow mould, and algae may continue to be a problem.

Troubleshooting

Trees and shrubs

Planting and moving

Continue to plant hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting trees, to prevent damage to the rootball or bark.

Continue to plant roses. Avoid planting roses in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases.

Move established deciduous trees and shrubs provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
 

General maintenance

Tie up splayed out branches on conifers that have become damaged by the weight of snow or by strong winds.

Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.

Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by frost heave or by strong winds.

Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.

Check protective coverings on newly planted or borderline hardy trees, shrubs and climbers, to ensure they remain secure until the risk of frost has passed.
 

Pruning and training
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.

Mulch and feed shrubs, trees, hedges and climbers after pruning, to give them energy for the extra growth they will put on after cutting back.

Trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers fade. Shears are the ideal tool. This will prevent the plants from becoming leggy and bare.
 

Trees

Deciduous flowering Prunus species (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned before mid-summer, and anyway should not require routine pruning if planted with sufficient space for their eventual size.

When pruning, concentrate on removing overcrowded growth, crossing stems, and dead, damaged, or dying branches. Aim for an open centre, through which air can circulate, as this will reduce the risk of pests and diseases. If your trees are too large for you to manage pruning alone, you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.

Shrubs

Many summer-flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between February and March; usually those that flower on the current year’s growth. Shrubs that need regular pruning include Buddleja davidii, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Lavatera, Leycesteria, Perovskia, hardy fuchsias, and deciduous Ceanothus.

Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until immediately after flowering, otherwise this year's display will be lost.

Do not prune slightly tender evergreen shrubs (such as Choisya, best left until April), but do tackle hardier examples (such as Prunus laurocerasus, the cherry laurel), if necessary.

Shrubs such as Buddleja davidii, Salix alba var. vitellina cultivars and Cornus sanguinea cultivars are usually stooled (i.e. cut back very hard), because this keeps them at a manageable size, as well as deepening the stem colour of those grown for their winter stems.

Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.

Cut out the top rosette of leaves from the leggy stems of Mahonia x media cultivars to encourage branching.

Cut or renovate deciduous hedges if necessary. They can still be renovated before leaf emergence.
 

Climbers

Spur-prune all current stems on Campsis by cutting back the laterals to within two or three buds of the main branches forming the framework.

Cut back climbers such as ornamental vines, ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy – it’s a good idea to keep them away from windows, doors, gutters and roof tiles.

Prune wisteria by cutting back the sideshoots shortened by summer pruning to two or three buds (2.5-5cm/1-2in). Avoid cutting off flower buds.

Cut back late Clematis in the summer and autumn flowering (Group 3) to the lowest pair of strong buds. Mulch and feed at the same time.

Prune winter-flowering jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) once the flowers have faded. Remove any dead or damaged shoots, tie in new shoots to the main framework, and then shorten all the laterals coming off the main framework to 5cm (2in), cutting to a bud. This will keep the plant neat, and improve flowering next winter. It is a good idea to feed and mulch after pruning, as the plant will put on lots of growth in response to cutting back.

Summer-flowering jasmines may also be pruned (if necessary), providing that they are reasonably hardy in their situation. With these you should remove a couple of stems completely to ground level, and avoid cutting back laterals, as this would damage the current year’s flowering potential.
 

Propagation

Sow tree seeds that have been kept in cold storage since collection in the autumn. The famous Bramley apple was grown from a seedling (see right).

This is the last month you can still take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Salix, Forsythia, Weigela, Escallonia, Rosa, Ribes, Chaenomeles and Elaeagnus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera).

Check hardwood cuttings taken last year - they may need planting or potting on.

Pest and disease watch

Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.

Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of box blight and holly leaf blight.

Bracket fungi on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.

Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.

Coral spot is often noticed while the leaves are off deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as often found inside clipped hedges).

Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.

Flowers

Sowing and planting

Lily bulbs can be planted in pots, for flowers this summer. After growing on indoors or in a cool greenhouse, they can be moved onto the patio when in flower, so that you can enjoy the blooms.

Dahlia tubers stored over winter (or bought this year) can be started into growth. Place them in a light, warm place to sprout before planting. They will need additional misting with a spray-bottle of water, to stop them drying out.

Bulbs coming up in the rock garden or in containers may benefit from overhead protection from the rain and snow. A sheet of glass or Perspex placed on piles of bricks will do the job.

Hardy annuals can be sown in pots or modules to provide colour.

Summer-flowering Dutch iris bulbs can be forced and used as cut flowers.

Place gladioli corms in seed trays or boxes and place in a light, warm spot around 10ºC (50ºF) to encourage them to sprout before planting. This will ensure an earlier display.

Sweet peas can be sown under cloches, in a cold frame, or in a cool room in the house. Any sweet peas that were sown earlier in the autumn can now be potted.

Root cuttings can be taken of Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein), Acanthus (bear’s britches) and Phlox.

Check on tender plants overwintering outdoors to ensure protective coverings are still in place.
 

Cutting back, pruning and dividing

Cut back deciduous ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus and other perennials left for winter interest.

Continue to deadhead winter pansies and other winter bedding. Pansies will carry on into the spring and even to early summer, if attended to frequently.

Cut off old leaves of hellebores that produce flowers from ground level (including Helleborus x hybridus and H. niger) to expose the flowers and remove possible foliar diseases such as hellebore leaf spot.

At the end of the month prune back the stems of pot-grown fuchsias, which are overwintering under cover, and place in a well-lit, warm place to encourage new growth.

Divide and/or plant bulbs-in-the-green such as snowdrops (Galanthus) and winter aconites (Eranthis hyemalis).

Divide clumps of herbaceous perennials that you want to propagate, those that have become too large for their allotted space, and those that are flowering poorly or have lost their shape.
 

General maintenance - soil

Prepare beds for new roses when conditions allow. Avoid wet days and frozen ground.

Test your soil for pH and nutrient levels; this can help you choose suitable plants for your garden, and allow you to rectify any nutrient deficiencies with a spring feed. Simple tests can be done at home (see left), and the RHS also offers a soil analysis service.

Improve the drainage of heavy soils by working in lots of organic matter and coarse gravel (if necessary).

Clear up weedy beds before mulching.

Mulching with a deep layer of organic matter helps to condition the soil, suppress weed growth, insulate plant roots from temperature fluctuations, and conserve soil moisture during the summer. Lighter soils can be mulched now, but heavier soils are best left until March, when the soil is warmer.

Towards the end of the month, you can top dress beds and borders with a balanced fertiliser such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone, to feed perennials as they start back into growth.
 

General maintenance - containers

Check whether containers need watering. Pots that are sheltered by eaves or balconies can miss out on any rainfall. Check the compost at a hand’s depth to see if it feels dry. Aim to keep pots moist, not wet.

Pots and containers benefit from topping up with fresh John Innes compost. Old compost can be removed and replaced if there is not much room.
 

Pest and disease watch

Remove dead leaves from around the basal rosettes of alpine plants such as saxifrages to prevent rotting.

Top dress spring-flowering alpines with grit or gravel to show off the plants and to help prevent stem rots.

Snowdrops can be vulnerable to botrytis (grey mould).

On winter pansies watch out for downy mildew and black spot.  Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants. To avoid the build-up of diseases, do not to plant pansies in the same place every year.

Look out for rots (such as crown rot, sclerotinia, delphinium black blotch, phytophthora root rot and antirrhinum rust) on emerging perennials and shrubs.

Hellebore leaf spot can be a problem on old foliage of hellebores. Cutting back the old leaves should control the problem, and allow the flowers and new growth to be better seen.

Protect sweet pea plants from aphids as they can transmit sweet pea viruses; pick off any aphids that you spot. Check autumn-sown sweet peas growing in cold frames, and keep watch for mouse and slug damage.

Protect lily, delphinium and hosta shoots from slugs and snails before they appear.

Inspect stored tubers of plants such as dahlia and canna for signs of drying out. Do not let them become bone dry or they will desiccate; but too wet and they may rot.
 

Planning ahead

Members can order seed from the RHS Seed Scheme between 1 November and 31 March.

Order catalogues for spring planting of summer-flowering bulbs, bedding plants and herbaceous perennials.

Stock up on stakes and ties for the coming season, if you have not done so already.

Plan your summer bedding and container planting schemes in good time for ordering the necessary bulbs, annuals and seed, and for propagating the relevant material.